Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Turku and Turku Archipelago

Turku (Abo in Swedish)

From Helsinki we caught the (moderately) fast train from the main station, the one with the Jugendstil statues out front. Hardly another soul on the train although a few did get on later. Still had lots of room to stash our luggage. Two hours later we arrived in Turku and set off by foot to find the hotel. Only about 1.5km from the station so it was pretty easy. Our bikes were waiting for us downstairs along with panniers and helmets. We rearranged our gear into the panniers, hoping we'd packed enough to cover unexpected weather before heading for a look around the town.

As the old capital it has quite a bit to see and there was a nice little pub/eatery precinct down on the river. A few old ships have been converted to floating restaurants. Spotted a nice little bar in the sun and their burgers looked great. Seventy five bucks later for two burgers and two beers, we decided to call it an early night. The chips were awesome though! Bright and early next day we saddled up and rode off toward Nauvo.

Turku Archipelago Cycle

A quick look at the route. Day 1: 50 plus km from Turku to Vastegard. Day 2: about 48km from Vastergard (via Nauvo) to Naantali. Day 3: Naantali back to Turku.


Our three day cycle route in the Turku Archipelago


Leaving Turku
Tick! We just got back from three days in the saddle touring around a small part of the thousand island archipelago of Turku. Definitely Worthwhile. Wish I’d taken some knicks as my bum now knows exactly where the undies seams are. Oversized ‘comfy’ saddles are a misnomer. They are not comfy. Still, it was fun and the scenery was beautiful. We departed Turku on Sunday morning for the 60km ride to Nauvo (Nagu in Swedish). Great bike paths here keep you away from the traffic for much of the route but we did rejoin the main road in a few places for the many bridges and at a couple of ferry crossings. It's hard to appreciate that you are in the middle of an archipelago until you get on a ferry, otherwise it seems as if you are just crossing bridges over rivers and the land is all connected.


Typical view from one of the many bridges
Stopped at a lovely little cafe which was once an old sailor's cottage dating from the late 1700s.
Blazingly red geraniums
Lovely quiet bike paths
On a ferry
Koff beer!
Greeeeeen!
Large outhouse or small barn?

 Sunday night we stayed at a B&B called Vastergard, run by Tom, the guy who hired the bikes. A well earned couple of beers at the end of the ride was followed by a walk around the local area. Spuds and wheat are in abundance as the Finns make the most of a short growing season so every spare bit of flat ground has some sort of crop planted, adding an incredible emerald green tint to the entire landscape. Tom cooked up a delicious meal for us (and the other four folk staying the night) before we collapsed into comfortable beds. The eternal light did not keep us awake that night.


More crops
More beer
A little stroll around B & B Vastergard before dinner

Our B & B at Vastergard. Note the bike loft. I counted over 50 bikes.
Day two was to be a bit easier, on paper at least. Only 49 km but a block headwind all the way and dropping temperatures added to the challenge. Then there were quite a few hills and, of course, the heavy bikes with their’comfy’ saddles and funny upright seating. I did find myself day-dreaming about the Merlin back home with it clip in pedals. 


Waiting for the ferry at Nauvo
Open wide!
Nauvo recedes into the distance as the M/V Ostern takes us to the next island
Seili Island has an old wooden church and was once a leper colony. The last leper died in 1785 so it became a lunatic asylum (as they were called back then). Sadly, not enough time to leave the boat for a good look.
Another stunning view from a bridge en route between Nauvo and Naantali. Blue waters, green forests, red buildings and white swans. What more could you want?
At the end of the second day's ride we stayed at a lovely little town called Naantali, the capital of summer holiday destinations. Many folk sail their yachts here for the weekend, tie up then head for the sauna inside the Tourist Information Centre. We got somewhat lost looking for our hotel as we rode around around the old town with its quaint painted wooden buildings and narrow alleyways.
Finally, a well earned shower and then a stroll around town for some photos. We enjoyed a seafood buffet and live music that is popular with the locals. At 8pm the traditional evening Vespers was sounded from the clock tower of the cathedral. It’s a tradition going back more than 100 years.


Naantali's old church, built in the 1400s.
The old town at Naantali
Ditto
Ditto again

View across the Naantali marina to the old church
Just before this morning's ride and it was getting cold and windy. Apparently snow is falling somewhere else in Finland
Day three’s ride was a short trip back to Turku. Much colder and even a few spots of rain. Soon it warmed up though and the waterproof gear was put away. A tailwind also blew us along at a much more respectable clip. Perhaps we'll avoid the burgers tonight.

Koff goes with pizza

Tomorrow it's off to the port bright and early to catch the M/S Amorella for the 12 hour trip to Stockholm, where we stay for 4 days.

Until next time...

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